The world, whether we like it or not, has truly hit Ho Chi Minh City. As Yeoh Siew Hoon reports, Vietnam's buzzing southern city now has the best and worst of everything.
One of the first things I noticed about Ho Chi Minh City – other than the fact that it’s totally unrecognisable from my last visit four years ago – was the absence of a Starbucks.
There were other known Western fast food brands – McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken, etc – but no sign of this global coffee brand that says it’s not about the coffee, it’s “the third place”.
My first thought was, it’s probably because the Vietnamese drip coffee is so good that nothing else will do.
Then I met a multinational advertising agency boss at Q Bar and he told me that even though there is rising prosperity in Vietnam, there isn’t yet the level of affluence that would support a Starbucks outlet. “They have high quality standards and they need a minimum turnover,” he told me.
The blogsophere is full of other stories as to why there is no Starbucks yet in Vietnam – high tariffs, for one – but one thing is clear, those who say Vietnam is the next big thing are wrong.
It is already the big thing as far as some are concerned.
While I was staying at the business lounge of the Caravelle, I eavesdropped on a conversation between two Americans. I was curious about them because they were showing each other images of women’s breasts on their computer screens and what they’d look like after “enhancements”.
They were in the city for a meeting of plastic surgeons. It is always a good sign of growing affluence when people can afford enhancements of any sort.
Bicycles have been enhanced to motorcycles, roadside stalls have become neon-lit, music-blaring cafes and distinctive and elegant ao dais have been replaced by the globally anonymous tight jeans and T-shirts. There are now spas, fitness centres, pet stores, high-end designer boutiques – just like everywhere in urban Asia.
Vietnam has for the past couple of years been a hot favourite among leisure travellers from Europe, the US and Japan. But in the last year or so, with the entry of more flights, particularly by low cost airlines, the destination has become a favourite among Asian travellers.
On the Jetstar flight I was on were groups of Singaporean women going to eat, shop and spa – to Singaporeans, Ho Chi Minh City has become the new Bangkok. “The food’s as good, the spas are as good but the shopping’s better,” said a girlfriend. You bet – Ho Chi Minh City is paradise for handbags and shoes and no girl can ever have enough of those.
I also bumped into a group of male friends who were headed there for golfing. They have quarterly golfing getaways and because Kota Kinabalu was full, they opted for Ho Chi Minh City over the Easter break.
While walking on Dhong Khoi, one of the main roads, we bumped into friends from Malaysia.
Once Ho Chi Minh City was the place you visited to escape from modern life, now it’s the place to come to, to experience modern life.
Only one thing has not changed in my recollection of Vietnam – the honking. The locals still drive with one foot on the pedal and the other on the horn.
When crossing the streets, just close your eyes and hope for the best. There are no rules here, just survival of the fastest and fittest.
Vietnamese have also started travelling abroad and it is one of the fastest growing markets to Singapore. On our return flight were groups of Vietnamese tourists following their tour leader, yes, carrying a flag.
At the check-in queue was a group of Singaporean men, looking very satisfied with their weekend in Ho Chi Minh City. One was discussing the state of his gut, which he kept rubbing. “I think I ate too much.”
Another said, “The girls are so young.”
Sometimes it doesn’t pay to eavesdrop.
