American Dee Harlow spent several months in Indonesia's Banda Aceh, Sumartra, as part of the relief team following the Boxing Day 2004 tsunami. She shares her memories.
Lampu'uk mosque. Photo courtesy of Forrest Lanning
Describe one neighbourhood walk which gets people into the flow of your place.
Experiencing Banda Aceh to me is about experiencing coastal communities, Muslim culture and the resilience of its citizens in the aftermath of catastrophe. While much of the city centre was spared significant structural damage by the 2004 tsunami, communities along the coast were the most affected by the devastation. My favourite walk is along a two mile stretch from Loknga Beach to Lampu'uk village where I combine the joy of beach combing, beautiful views and an appreciation for people who survived one of the most devastating natural disasters in history.
On weekends, Loknga Beach is flooded with surfers, boogie boarders and boys playing football on the beach. Nearly, all Loknga villagers live in tsunami reconstruction houses, which you can see across the beach road. The houses were built by international Non-Government Organisations (NGOs). About a third of the way down the beach, the tide is just right for washing up some pretty nice shells, coral and sometimes interesting artifacts. One time I even found a coral-encrusted machete.
In the distance, the main mosque of Lampu'uk comes into view at the entrance of the village. Its stark black and white architecture stands out against the surrounding green foliage and blue hills. Passing by the mosque, you can often see people observing one of the five prayer rituals of the day and occasionally groups of children studying the Qu'ran.
Throughout Lampu'uk village, in between other rows of NGO-built houses are people trying to restart their livelihoods in makeshift stands and cafes. When you meet villagers of Lampu'uk, you hear stories about their survival - and learn that despite the total devastation of their village they would rather stay and rebuild than leave. By the time you reach Pantai Babah Tiga, locally known as Joel's Beach, at the end of the walk, you understand why people would not want to leave this idyllic setting.
A note of caution: Ocean waters around Aceh can be violent and currents tend to be very strong. Only venture where locals dare to swim. If there is no one in the water, it is a pretty good sign that you shouldn't go in either.
Describe a place to get a great cup of coffee. What's cool about it?
Sitting down to a cup of coffee is an important pastime for Achenese men. Coffee shops abound throughout the city and villages throughout Aceh Province. Men congregate in these cafes at all hours of the day and night, not only to socialise but to conduct business and hold discussions with village leaders and make connections. The coffee is strong and syrupy sweet and the air is smokey, but you sit steeped in the throng of Acehnese culture and tradition.
Sorry ladies, rarely do women go to these cafes, given the male-dominated culture of the Achenese.
Describe a time of day (i.e. 4:56pm), a spot to sit, and a view that will break your heart.
At sunset, "Joel's Beach" near Lampu'uk village is the place to sit in the sand and watch the fiery sun dip into the ocean. The horizon glows a brilliant multi-hued display that blends into the darkening blue sky behind you, where the moon rises through a palm tree grove. One evening, when the timing was just right, I watched a flood of bats pour out of a cave high up in the cliffs. They formed a dark cloud that headed towards the moon and into the misty surrounding hills. It was one of the most dramatic scenes I have ever witnessed.
About 200 metres from the beach is Joel's Restaurant, which belongs to a local surfer who rebuilt the business from top to bottom after the tsunami completely wiped out his previous restaurant. Joel's is famous for their wood-fired pizzas and it also serves up good local dishes or grilled fish with a side of chilli-soaked soy sauce. For drinks there is nothing more refreshing, after a walk on the beach, than a mix of fresh tropical fruit juices like Joel's pineapple, lemon and ginger blend.
Describe a place that holds a strong memory for you when you first arrived.
Driving along the west coast road towards the town of Lamno I was awestruck by the magnificent, pristine coastline. On one side the hills and mountains rise up in dense green jungle where locals claim Sumatran tigers still roam - while stretches of white sand beaches and turquoise ocean waves take your breath away on the other. Part of the road winds around hill-sides hugging knife-edge cliffs that plunge down into the frothy breaks of mighty waves.
The drive also takes you through tiny fishing villages lined with charming although rickety warungs, or cafes, where you can stop to sit and chat with the locals over a cup of coffee and a persistent offering of sweet treats, even though you didn't order it. Driving away from one of these cafes, I once saw a fisherman walking down the street toting a baby Hammerhead shark.
An unforgettable excursion.
The island of Pulau Weh, locally known as Sabang, is about a 45 minute speed ferry ride from the Banda Aceh port. Jutting towards the Indian Ocean it is the northwestern-most island of the entire Indonesian archipelago and offers snorkelling, scuba diving and a laid back, relaxing getaway. The waters at Iboih and Gapang beaches on the northwest peninsula are very calm and inviting. This area is more remote and accommodations are very basic.
View from Freddy's bungalows. Author's photo.
The best place to stay is at Freddy's on secluded Santai Sumur Tiga facing the Adaman Sea. Sumur Tiga beach is one of the only beaches where women can wear swimsuits and bikinis without drawing unwanted attention. A native South African, Freddie Rousseau is a personable and consummate host, cooking up meals himself and tailoring the music selection to his guests as they enjoy the breezy open-air dining room. Accommodations are in thatched huts with balconies perched over the beach where one can sit and daydream about legendary pirates of the south seas.
Freddy's Santai Sumur Tiga: http://www.santai-sabang.com/
One of your favourite shops. Why?
One of my favourite things to do when in Southeast Asia is to check out the spas. I was delighted to find a Martha Tillar Spa & Salon across the street from the Pante Pirak department store in the Peunayong district of Banda Aceh. It offers a complete range of services and treatments, but my all-time favourite was getting the "cream bath" a treatment unique to Indonesia. It is not what it sounds like at all. Rather, it is a very relaxing hair conditioner head massage that also includes your shoulders and arms. Although it is done sitting up in a salon chair I always manage to fall asleep during the treatment as it is that relaxing. Definitely try it.
A restaurant dripping with atmosphere..
Pace Bene, with its candle-lit rooftop seating and an eclectic clientele of hip Indonesians from Jakarta and international aid workers, is the place to be. Even though it is located in the centre of the city's busy Peunayong district, Pace Bene's entrance is along a somewhat hidden side street. Once you find it, you still have to be buzzed in through the locked front door by restaurant staff, for good reason.
Upon entering the feeling of mystery continues as you walk through a dark lounge and up two flights of dimly lit staircases before reaching the atmospheric rooftop dining area. The restaurant's chef whips up delectable Italian-inspired dishes that often feature local fresh seafood. A well stocked bar and ample supply of Bintang beer draws quite an international crowd and you can often hear three or four different languages mingle in the evening breeze.
A bar with attitude, and a drink to order there
Aceh has a strict Shari'a Islamic law which officially forbids alcohol, but where there is demand there is always an unofficial supply. Needless to say, always be sensitive to local concerns. Given the limited number of establishments in Banda Aceh that serve alcohol, Pace Bene (above) once again tops the list. The bar at the entrance of the rooftop restaurant is mixed in with the dinner crowd buzz. Downstairs are two levels of dark velvety lounges booming with house music for continuing on late into the night.
One thing you'd change about the destination if you could.
I was always frustrated by the lack of direct air access from surrounding Southeast Asian countries. Banda Aceh is a hidden gem for adventure travel and responsible tourism, and tourism can provide much-needed income to its recovering economy. Now that I'm no longer there, I got my wish for direct access as AirAsia began offering direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Banda Aceh. Please note though that Banda Aceh airport does not have Visa-on-Arrival services, so non-ASEAN visitors will need to have your visa processed prior to departure.
Author's Note : Dee Harlow was born in Thailand and grew up in the United States where she currently lives with her husband, Graham, enjoying the mountains of Colorado. She worked for investment banks in New York and Singapore for 10 years before changing careers to become a humanitarian aid and international development worker. Dee's work has taken her to Uzbekistan, Sudan and Indonesia.
She says the experiences have taught her the following about travel and life: "There is a lot of things that are not under your control. But wherever you are, you can always choose to soak in your surroundings for all that they have to offer and find even more fulfillment than you could previously imagine."
