Tara Gallery Cafe and Bar

There is a new place to hang out in Dukedzong or Gyalthang/Shangri-La old town in Zhongdian, and it is the Tara Gallery Cafe and Bar. It is conceived in an ancient Tibeto Naxi building (Number 29), which was a small trading house belonging to a Tibetan landlord and businessman in 1950.

The building was in a bad shape with one of the rammed earth walls and the wooden main structure needing extensive repair. Where necessary each old wooden pillar, panel and floor boards was dismantled, carefully cleaned and repaired, and put back in its original place. It took almost six months to carefully and fully repair the trading house and give it back its original splendour.

The building faces the original cobblestone mule caravan route of the famous Tea caravan route through Dukedzong old town and the peach blossoms of the Ta Fo Si temple on the hill on top. It has a charming room that probably served as the trading houses' office or shop and is complete with the original secret storing chambers and simple lovely carved wooden alcoves.

Pictured left: One of the sitting rooms at Tara

We have kept the ancient rammed earth walls exposed to showcase their beauty and durability. The ancient kitchen is renovated exactly to what it was, but with a new cast iron fireplace. Upstairs there is a wonderful chamber with the ancient bed in a recessed alcove, rumoured to be that of the mistress. The roof was repaired with special layers of waterproofing and the original shingles cleaned and turned, and replaced in the traditional manner. The new kitchen roof was built to match the old.

The vicinity of the gallery and teahouse is fascinating as it is surrounded by other historical houses in Dukedzong old town. To name a few:

• Number 73, built in the Qing dynasty as a special inn for caravan traders;
• Number 107 and 108, homes of another famous businessman in the old town;
• Diansaika house, originally used to control the market and settle trading disputes, was manned 24 hours and also used to store official archives and for ringing fire alarms;
• Building Number 49, the Tibetan Go (Tibetan Chess) house;
• Building Number 16, or Xiajugangda, used to serve as the stage coach station, now an artists studio;
• Building number 66, one of Gyalthang’s fine typical architectural structures combining Tibetan and Han building styles, with the wooden beams bearing Sanskrit and frescoes still preserved;
• Building Number 74, originally owned by Chen Yannian, another famous businessman and was constructed using elements of Han, Tibetan, Bai and Naxi techniques; and
• Abu Family home, near the entry to the old town, is another example of a fine old residence.

The bar

The Tara Gallery and Cafe will have rotating exhibitions of ancient and modern art, as well as exhibits relating to local and regional life and environment. With its quiet location and serene atmosphere we hope to convey the essence of Shangri-La.

The small specially and personally created cuisine selection is healthful, and has the flavours of the local and distant lands that Gyalthang caravans traded with in the past and continues to have ties with in the present.

Pictured right: Healthy food and good company at the Tara

Dukedzong old town is a fascinating destination. Originally consisting of 63 households, where 68 different crafts were practised, it became a multicultural business centre as trading flourished with neighbouring regions. Business centres, such as Naxi Meeting Hall, Bai Meeting Hall and Shanxi Meeting Hall, were created and Gyalthang became an important crossroads with trading ties with and extending to Tibet, Southern Yunnan, Burma and India.

Gyalthang is also an important starting point for pilgrimages to the sacred Mount Kawakarpo, the second most important mountain for pilgrimages and one of the centres of Khampa culture. Most recently it has been recognised internationally as being in the centre of the most bio diverse area in the Northern Hemisphere, with a wealth of temperate and alpine flowers and plants and medicinal herbs.

Dukedzong old town is also a wonderful place for walking. Lanes descend from the central hill of the old town towards north to the Sifang Entry Square or Sifang Square; east to the Dukedzong Monastery and the museums, and to the ancient gates in the west and south. A walk up the hill will take you to the largest prayer wheel, Da Fo Si temple and Bai Ji Si Temple from where you will have a panoramic view of the entire town and valley.

For more information on Tara Gallery Cafe and Bar contact:

Email: uttara_sarkar@hotmail.com
Phone: 86-887-8227838
Fax: 86-887-8227557

Author's Note: Uttara Sarkar Crees is Managing Director of Yueliang Wan Travel Corporation & Gyalthang Eco Travel in Yunnan, China and has over 20 years in the tourism business.

Prior to moving to China Uttara was was the Product Development and Marketing Director of Tiger Mountain Group of Companies based in Nepal. She was responsible for pioneering adventure tourism and ecotourism in Ladakh, Indian and Nepal Himalayas and Tibet.