The writer feeling on top of the world hgh up the Vimean Akas Tower in Angkor Thom

The main purpose of my visit to Siem Reap on May 11 was to see the magnificent Angkor Wat, major temples and ruins in the Angkor Archaeological Park. Since it was a 4 days/3 nights tour, we would need to plan the route so that we can visit all the key temples of Siem Reap within two days.

Once we have settled the rates for the tuk tuk and tour guides for the temples tour, the tuk tuk driver Heang brought us to the nearby local coffee shop for the Cambodia beef kuek-tiao soup and coffee (need hot water to dilute it as it is far too thick).

Having a good guide is essential as he/she will explain the bas-reliefs and history of the temples; otherwise they are just impressive piles of mega rocks.

We had Sokha as our guide at a fee of US$20 per day. On her advice we would visit the inner circuit of temples in Angkor Thom ((means “Great City”), Central Angkor Thom (Bayon, Terrace of the Elephants, Terrace of the Lepar King), Ta Prohm and Angkor Wat on the first day. On the second day we would visit the outlying temples of Banteay Srei, Phnom Kulen and Beng Mealea by Pajero.

The admission pass costs US$20 per pax per day or US$40 for three days, covering the key temples, including Banteay Srei. Separate charges are levied for the rest of the outlying ones. Visitors are advised to carry the tickets at all times as checks are carried at each park entry and major temples.

The tour started with Angkor Thom. Built by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219), this last capital of the Khmer Empire that was razed by the Chams, was a fortified city consisting of residences of the priests, palace officials and military, plus buildings for the kingdom’s administration.

The writer having a close encounter with Buddha at Angkor Thom

After King Jayavarman VII recaptured the city from the Cham invaders in 1181 he began a massive building campaign across the empire, constructing Angkor Thom as his new capital city with a population of one million. He began with the existing structures, Baphuon and Phimeanakas, and built a mega-enclosed city around them. He then added the outer wall and some great temples, with Bayon located at the centre of the city. There are five gates, each crowned with four giant faces, leading to the city. The Victory Gate leads to the Royal Palace and the South Gate is where most tours begin (we were there).

The month of May is low tourist season for Siem Reap and now, with the current economic crisis, there are less tourists and visitors to the temples. We were thus very welcomed by the souvenir sellers and I was lucky to buy two nice bronze baby elephants for US$2.

Bayon, in Angkor Thom, is the centre of the city and Jayavarman VII’s state-temple representing the pinnacle of his massive building campaign. It is extremely impressive and unique with its many towers of four faces of Buddha, and, in the centre, eight faces of Buddha. Built as a Buddhist temple there were 54 towers originally representing 54 provinces in Cambodia but over the years, due to wars, about 20 towers are left standing now. The bas-reliefs, starting from the East gate, show the daily life of the Khmers and depict their victorious battles over the Chams with the support of Chinese forces. The soldiers could be identified by the different headgears and costumes.

The temperature in Siem Reap in May can be as high as 34ºC and the sun is really intensive and burning; so remember to wear light clothes and bring a cap, sunglasses and mineral water with you.

Pictured right: Angkor Wat in all its splendour

After a quick tea break we continued our journey to Baphuon (currently under restoration) whose side entrance is filled with interesting animal carvings and there is a huge reclining Buddha. We climbed up the top of Phimeanakas. From this position we had a good view of Baphuon and the surrounding areas. We then strolled to the 350m Terrace of the Elephants, which was a giant viewing stand for public ceremonies during ancient times.

After a nice lunch with icy coconut drinks and beers we visited the jungle temple of Ta Prohm, outside the walls of Angkor Thom on the eastern side. Built around 1186 this Buddhist temple gives visitors the mysterious feeling of an Indiana Jones movie. Up and down and skirting around the holes and trees we went through the temple like Harrison Ford in the Indiana Jones movies. The temples were almost completely invaded by forests with many parts crumpled and some kept together by tree roots, which snake around the temple structures.

Angkor Wat (City Temple) is visually, artistically and architecturally the most breathtaking of all the Angkor temples. It is a massive three-tiered pyramid crowned by five lotus-like towers of 65m in height. It is the centrepiece of our visit to the temples of Angkor.

Pictured left: Sunset at Phnom Bakheng

At the apex of the Khmer political and military dominance in the region Suryavarman II (1112-1152) constructed Angkor Wat in the form of a massive temple-mountain to serve ass his state temple and funerary temple. It is dedicated to the Hindu God, Vishnu and is surrounded by a 190m-wide moat. The Hindu temple measures 1.5km by 1.3 km. There are many bas-reliefs and carvings, some 2,000 distinctively rendered apsara (more than 30 different head gears), carvings along the temple walls, depicting stories and characters from Hindu mythology and the historical wars of Suryavarman II. It was a pity that we had little time to explore Angkor Wat fully, except for the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, as we were too tired and thirsty and needed rest and drinks.

After Angkor Wat we proceeded to see the sunset at Phnom Bakheng. The sun, however, decided to play “hide and seek” with us and it hid behind the clouds; so we did not get to see the full sunset we had hoped. But it was still quite a beautiful sight with the thick clouds under the stunning sun.

• Photos courtesy of the writer