A pre-Angkor temple

Sambor Prei Kuk, formerly known as Isanapura, was the capital of a pre-Angkorian Khmer kingdom in Cambodia. It is now getting its rightful place on the tourism map through the efforts of the German government, through GTZ, and Khiri Reach, the non--profit arm of Khiri Travel.

These two organisations are helping subsistence villagers around the area (central Cambodia) with physical preparations to cater to the expected influx of tourists who are curious to explore dozens of local temple ruins that pre-date Angkor Wat by up to 500 years.

With some international aid the villagers have set up small scale infrastructure that includes a handicraft shop, information centre, restaurant, homestay accommodation and guided bicycle tours. The latter visit the nearby ruins, which have been likened to a setting in an Indiana Jones movie.

Left: Ruins of one of the temples

"Our aim is to bring more people to the Sambor Prei Kuk area and extend their stay to at least one overnight," said Willem Niemeijer, CEO and co-founder of Khiri Travel.

"The area is suitable for adventurous travellers who enjoy low-key pleasures such as forest hikes, exploration by bicycle, ox cart rides, homestays and buying locally made silk, rattan and bamboo handicrafts."

Visitors can also combine a tour to the ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk with visits to community-based attractions in the province. These include Santuk Mountain, the holiest in the region, Tonle Sap protected area and bird sanctuary, the Santuk Silk Farm and an inspection of villages specialized in stone carving and making rice noodles.

GTZ helps with guide training, educating locals to preserve their heritage and building a basic restaurant plus information centre and toilets for tourists.

When GTZ started work in the area there were approximately 1,200 visitors per year. There are now around 8,000, but few stay overnight.

Information centre

The temples are in an impoverished area of Kampong Thom province, halfway between Phnom Penh and Angkor Wat. Most visitors pass through without stopping. This may soon change.

"Sambor Prei Kuk is at the centre of a plan to promote attractions throughout Kampong Thom province," said Peter Bolster, programme director, Private Sector Promotion, GTZ-PSP. "The provincial government has agreed to the plan, which is now under consideration at the highest level of government in Phnom Penh.”

Since 2005 GTZ has worked with the Sambor Prei Kuk Conservation Project to establish craft training courses for seven villages in the area. Community funds now go towards temple conservation, supporting home businesses, maintaining signage, and the upkeep of the craft hut and information centre.

• Photos courtesy of Khiri Travel